Whilst Staple Island was rugged and intimidating, Inner Farne was more accommodating. It is shaped like a right-angled triangle, or a piece of pie on its side rising up from a harbour at sea level to cliffs at the back. It was a short trip from Staple Island where I had previously spent a couple of hours (see previous blog) across a fairly calm sea. The visit was part of a day excursion out to the Farne Isles and would be the last destination of the day before heading back to dry land.
For whatever reason you have for visiting this island, one occupant had other ideas. Right from the moment I got off the boat I was bombarded by ARCTIC TERNS. They nested everywhere on the first part of the island, and they really let you know they were there. They flew around our heads and would dip down to peck, a little nip, like someone lightly tapping you on the head. The nests they were protecting were fairy rudimentary, a basic design, but what they lacked in creativity they made up for in aggressiveness.
Walking up from the harbour through the tern colony, I came to the main part of the island. It wasn't so much bleak, the nice weather and other birders made it seem fine, but as something that didn't belong to humans. It was a large open expanse, overgrown with weeds, although there were no trees or grass growing.
.Nesting ARCTIC TERN
This island had facilities, a toilet and a shop, and the old buildings they were based in were built around St Cuthbert's original residence. It is now used by rangers who live on the island. They would walk around the island, their jackets stained white from tern droppings, a weapon used in defence of their nests.
The terns inhabited around half the island, and most people soon walked towards the other side, where away from the terns, they could relax and take a breather.
On the flat expanse outside the tern colony, other birds could nest. Star of the show was the PUFFIN, nesting in burrows, partly dug out by the rabbit colony. They didn't seem bothered by the people at all. Visitor access was only on designated paths, with the rest of the island, and the birds roped off.
PUFFIN amongst SANDWICH TERNS.
Other birds on this part of the island included a small colony of SANDWICH TERNS, a larger bird than the arctics, and BLACK HEADED GULLS, which already had chicks.
Towards the back of the island was a large cliff formation and packed out with seabirds, the same species I saw at Staple Island, but no less a spectacle.
Guillemots made up the numbers, but were joined by RAZORBILLS, KITTIWAKES and SHAGS.
KITTIWAKES
We were on the island for a couple of hours before unfortunately having to leave, boarding the boat that brought us back to Seahouses and dry land. Apart from the species of birds seen on the islands, seen fishing round the water I also saw a couple of GANNETS, birds that don't nest on the Farnes, but do pass through on the lookout for food.
What can I say, except it was a great day out, I thoroughly recommend it. Even a non-birder could appreciate the scale of such a place. For an alternative to the stresses of modern existence, a trip out to nowhere is quite the tonic, so book a trip for next year.
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